What is an Anarkali Suit? The Complete Guide to India's Most Beloved Ethnic Silhouette

If you have ever attended an Indian wedding, a Navratri celebration, or a Diwali party and found yourself wondering about that floor-length, dramatically flared dress the women around you were wearing — that is almost certainly an Anarkali suit.

It is one of the most recognisable silhouettes in Indian ethnic fashion. And yet, despite its ubiquity, many people are unsure exactly what makes an Anarkali an Anarkali, how it differs from other Indian ethnic wear, and how to choose the right one for the right occasion.

This guide covers all of it.

What is an Anarkali suit?

An Anarkali suit is a type of Indian ethnic wear characterised by a long, flared kurta (tunic) — typically floor-length or knee-length — with a fitted bodice that flares dramatically from the waist or chest downward, creating a full, umbrella-like silhouette. It is usually worn with fitted churidaar or straight pants, and often comes with a matching or contrasting dupatta (scarf).

The name 'Anarkali' comes from the legendary courtesan Anarkali of Mughal-era Lahore, immortalised in Bollywood cinema. The silhouette itself draws directly from Mughal court fashion — layered, regal, and built for graceful movement.

Key features of an Anarkali suit

• Fitted bodice: The upper portion is fitted and tailored.
• Flared skirt: Below the fitted section, the fabric fans out in a full, circular flare.
• Length: Ranges from mid-calf (midi) to full floor-length (maxi). Floor-length is the most formal.
• Dupatta: Most Anarkali sets include a coordinated dupatta.
• Bottom wear: Traditionally paired with churidaar or straight pants.

Anarkali suit vs lehenga choli: what is the difference?

Anarkali suit: A single long garment fitted at the top and flared at the bottom — the bodice and flared skirt are one connected piece, worn over pants.

Lehenga choli: Two separate garments — a short fitted blouse (choli) and a full separate skirt (lehenga). The key distinction is that in an Anarkali the bodice and flared portion are connected; in a lehenga choli they are separate.

Types of Anarkali suits

Floor-length Anarkali

The most formal variety. Falls to the floor, ideal for weddings and receptions. Roohani's Purple and Yellow Floral Anarkali Gowns are classic examples.

Printed Anarkali

Features fabric-printed patterns — florals, geometrics, paisleys. More casual. Roohani's Floral Flair Anarkali Kurta Set in muslin-cotton is a printed Anarkali.

Embroidered Anarkali

Features hand or machine embroidery — mirror work, resham thread, sequins, aari work. More formal and festive, often used for weddings.

Anarkali gown

A heavier, more structured version closer to a Western gown. Often in georgette or silk. Roohani's Purple Floral Anarkali Gown at ₹10,999 falls into this category.

Best fabrics for Anarkali suits

• Cotton: Best for casual and daily wear. Breathable, ideal for summers.
• Muslin-cotton: Lightweight and flowy. Excellent drape for printed Anarkali sets.
• Georgette: Most popular for festive Anarkali. Fluid, slightly sheer, exceptional at holding flare.
• Art silk: Heavy and lustrous for maximum formality. Used in bridal sets.

Occasions for an Anarkali suit

• Weddings (guest): Floor-length georgette or embroidered Anarkali is the standard choice.
• Navratri: Bright full-flare Anarkali suits are a Navratri staple — especially yellow, pink, green, orange.
• Diwali and Eid: Festive Anarkali in cotton or georgette works for both.
• Mehndi and Sangeet: Colourful printed Anarkali suits for pre-wedding functions.
• Office ethnic day: A midi-length or cotton Anarkali is appropriate for workplace events.

How to style an Anarkali suit

• Jewellery: Traditional gold (jhumkas, bangles, maang tika) for festive styles. Minimal oxidised silver for casual cotton.
• Footwear: Embellished heels or block-heeled juttis. Flat mojaris for casual styles.
• Dupatta: Draped across both shoulders for formal occasions; one shoulder for a relaxed look.
• Hair: Classic low bun or loose braid. The silhouette is dramatic enough that simple hair works best.

How to find your Anarkali size

Anarkali suits are sized by bust measurement for the bodice. The flared portion accommodates most hip sizes due to its full-circle construction. If between sizes, size up for the most comfortable fit. See our Size Guide for exact measurements in inches and centimetres.

Shop Anarkali suits at Roohani

Roohani offers Anarkali suits from ₹799 cotton printed sets to ₹10,999 premium georgette gowns — all designed in Lucknow, sized XS to L, and available for delivery across India.

Browse our Anarkali Suits collection →